When the plants reach 3 to 4 inches in height, harden them off gradually, then plant them outdoors about 10 inches apart. If you feel the need to control leaf miners, keep an eye out for the first signs of doodling. Inspect the leaves for the larvae, and crush them with your fingers. Otherwise, columbine plants are subject to few problems. Pest Damage on Columbine. University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.
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Her published articles have appeared in various print and online publications. Previously, she owned her own business, selling handmade items online, wholesale and at crafts fairs. Harrington's specialties include small business information, crafting, decorating and gardening. Share this article. Tip Cut back the columbine to the basal leaves early in the season to combat mold and mildew.
Warning Flower buds resemble seed heads. Be careful not to accidentally remove the buds. In areas with hot summers, especially in a full-sun position, foliage often remains dormant and reemerges in the fall. Seedlings can also seed themselves into the cracks between rocks or walls and remain green throughout a mild winter. Staking: No staking is necessary, unless plants are grown in exceedingly rich soil. Watering: Keep soil evenly moist and do not allow Columbine to dry out significantly during its first year in the ground.
As they become established, Columbine are more drought tolerant, with deep tap roots that can access moister soil deeper down. Fertilizing: A top dressing of compost or well-rotted manure is sufficient to keep Columbine blooming well and not becoming overly leggy. Mulching: Mulching is a good idea for Columbine, as it thrives in an evenly moist environment. Cutting the foliage to the base and throwing it away will encourage new foliage to emerge for the season.
If, however, you live in a hotter climate, or the plant is situated in a full sun location, it may go dormant for the rest of the season until cooler temperatures prevail.
Columbine has deep roots and it will sulk after transplanting. Try to dig down as deeply as you can in a circle around the clump and lift the clump without breaking the soil ball. Lay that on the ground and divide quickly with a sharp spade, trying to retain a good amount of soil around the roots.
Replant the divisions gently and keep well-watered. It winds its way through the leaves between the leaf surfaces, and thus is not affected by sprays. But if you wish to work towards removing this pest in your garden, cut the foliage to the ground and throw it away — do not compost it. New foliage will emerge if temperatures are not scorching. This will encourage the columbine to branch and produce more dense foliage growth, which will help older plants look younger and more vigorous.
Alternatively, in more moderate climates, columbine flowers sometimes benefit from being cut back in autumn before the first frost.
This is especially important if the plants are known to be infested with leaf miners or other insects that might want to overwinter among the stems and dead foliage. Cut back the whole plant to within a few inches of the ground and discard the stems.
Spread a 3-inch layer of straw mulch between the plants to protect the roots during the winter months. Light pruning is an integral part of columbine, or Aquilegia, care because it will encourage blooming periods throughout the entire growing season. Another benefit to deadheading columbine is that it keeps the plant from producing seeds, which is important because columbine flowers hybridize easily and will self-seed, according to North Carolina State University Extension.
Deadhead throughout the summer blooming season, snipping off the spent flowers before they ripen into seed pods.
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