The risk of damage increases exponentially the more the original surface is exposed. A heavy-duty paint stripper seems to be another go-to method for many people trying to remove Duracoat from their firearms. These can be found at your local hardware store—the heavier duty, the better! Make sure the label says it removes epoxy-based paint.
Aircraft remover is a good one. This last method is sort of an unorthodox one, but many people have said it works—especially if the Duracoat is not fresh. Brake cleaner contains harsh chemicals, so you must do this outside with the wind blowing away from you.
You can use brake cleaner because it is meant to remove oil coatings on rotors, so it will not damage the gun itself. While this is not guaranteed to work, due to the sheer strength of chemicals in brake cleaner, there is a chance it can break up the Duracoat paint. Duracoat is a pain to remove—no doubt about that, especially if it has been on your firearm for a long time. The fresher the coat of Duracoat is, the better chance you have at removing it. Blasting is probably the most successful of the methods since that is what professionals do to remove paint like this.
A heavy-duty paint stripper or even brake cleaner may also do the trick, but now you are getting into more potent chemicals, so proper ventilation and some experience are crucial. Either way, no method is guaranteed, so trial and error is your best bet. There are a lot of "Green" products that won't do it. I gave a chemical name to look for.
It causes rust though. The gun is bedded. Will it effect it negatively? The dicloromethane in the above mentioned products can and will dissolve any epoxy or polymer Are you sure all will work? It causes rust though yes it will work, I have used it. I don't know about you guys but I have had difficulty removing duracoat with Zip strip or any chemical.
Alot depends on how it was applied. If it the surface was medial blasted before duracoat application no chemical will take it off easily. If applied over other paint, bluing or wood with just a degrease it will come off alot easier. I tried to remove duracoat off a rifle I had blasted, duracoated and properly cured. Yea i have a few friend who did that same exact thing and ran into your same problem. Color looks horrible. GL hopefully you can get it off.
Longshot38 Gunny Sergeant Full Member. Mar 1, 1, 1 39 Montgomery, TX. Duracoat can be removed with acetone. I've also found that a dremel and a fine grit wheel or two works well. While I did a great what I think job and the color isn't bad at all. It's just lighter than I wanted I'm certainly not taking a dremel to it, just not happening. Personally I'm not seeing a problem with just putting a coat right over it. Unless anyone has had and experience with that negatively.
It would only be two. Aqua Mark Sergeant Full Member. Mar 29, 1, Las Vegas, NV. Wipe acetone on it to remove grease fingerprints and dust, and spray the next coat over it. Then you can spray a flat clear coat. After it dries, let it sit in a warm room for a month and you are good to go Apr 29, 0 39 Los Angeles. Duracoat is really thick and a second coat will give it that paintbrush-painted look.
I have done this before and the results were NOT pleasing. Take whatever part you want to strip and dunk it in a tank or ammo can filled up with acetone and let it sit for 10 minutes, the duracoat will soften, crinkle up and you will be able to peel it off with a fingernail. Acetone will not damage anodizing or parkerizing. Jul 1, 0 Oregon, Willamette Valley. I striped a YHM hand guard using spray on paint striper. I think it was z strip or zip strip or something like that.
The Duracoat pealed off very quickly. Then washed it in soap and water. It looked like new when I was done. I tried acetone first but it was slow going. Dec 7, 0 Salt Lake UT. YMMV but some strippers may discolor your anodizing. But, in order for the acetone to work, it needs to soak. If your first layer is very thick, then I do agree don't just spray another layer over it Jan 25, 1 Galivants Ferry, S. You could always coat the Pmags to match the rifle.
Bro the point was the pmag color is what I wanted. Anyhow after talking to Lauer I'm sending them in a pmag to have it color matched at no extra charge. We'll see how that works out. Acetone huh, I'll go that route. If you prepped everything before coating, degrease, blast etc.. You could lightly blast the existing coat and recoat with the new stuff Lauer sends you. I decided to change the color on one of my rifles and had no issues with a light blast and recoat.
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